New Smyrna Beach: My Home Away From Home

new smyrna beach sunset - Photo by Tommy Fawcett, unsplash

The Vibe

When I get off the plane in Orlando, it takes a minute to orient to the warm, heavy air and lush greenery. Traffic getting out of the airport is hectic, but once I make my way East to the coast, the slower pace and laid-back vibe takes over. 

 New Smyrna Beach is my home away from home, since a large chunk of my family lives there. It’s grown a lot in the past 2 decades, but still embodies a nice blend of flip-flop beach bum and sleepy Old Florida – where relaxing and rejuvenating are always on the menu.

 New Smyrna is divided into a Mainland and a Beach Side, with the Intracoastal Waterway, the Indian River, dividing the two. While it can make getting from point A to point B troublesome, the experiences offered by such a variety of eco-systems is amazing. From walking white sand beaches to kayaking the river in search of dolphins, mother nature blessed this place with a crazy load of beauty.

The Beach Side – Flagler Avenue

You can drive on the beach! This Florida tradition aided by the hard packed sand has its pros and cons, but dates back to the original Daytona 500 race on the beach. Despite motor cars and condos, the New Smyrna coastline still possesses a tranquil beauty with its grassy dunes, pelicans, and sea turtles. You can rent a bike or take a walk to enjoy the sand and surf. Driving on the beach is $20, and helpful if you don’t like schlepping your beach gear or kids. Plus, parking is not any cheaper.

Flagler Avenue is the Beach Side’s main drag, with lots of restaurants, and shops featuring everything from the outlandish souvenirs you’d expect, to galleries with local arts and crafts. You can find quality dining, or a simple rooftop bar to drink away the afternoon, which is totally acceptable in a beach town.

The 3rd Wave Café and Wine Bar is without a doubt one of the best restaurants in town, with a peaceful outdoor patio and excellent food. It’s not to be missed for their daily brunch, but you’d be doing yourself a disservice if you don’t go back for dinner. The patio takes on a magical feel after dark, serving everything from inspired appetizers, to seafood, to wood-fired pizza, hopefully accompanied with a bottle of wine under the stars.

Don’t be surprised by the wild poultry along Flagler. Local hotels petitioned to have them removed so the roosters didn’t wake up the guests. So far the chickens are winning.  

The More Sedate – South Atlantic

Driving south on Atlantic Avenue will eventually bring you to the no-driving beaches. Perfect if you prefer the quiet, natural beach vibe with the added bonus of not worrying about getting run over. At the Southern end of this road, is Canaveral National Seashore, a state park with a beautiful, quiet beach. 

On the way to or from the no-drive beaches, check out Chase’s On the Beach, with its huge outdoor deck and bar which are, actually, right on the beach. You can enjoy day drinking with the locals, or popping bar snacks and pub food, but it’s really all about the view.

One of my favorite restaurants is SoNapa. It’s tucked away in a tiny strip center, so easy to miss. What started as a wine bar is now a full service restaurant with chef inspired dishes along with great wine and cocktails. After dinner, it’s fun to browse The Kembali Teak Gallery next store for a great variety of Indonesian imports and unique gifts.

The River

The North or South causeway is the access to the Beach Side, but don’t overlook the River under the bridges. To get an up close view, you can book one of many boat tours that cruise you up the river in search of dolphins and manatees. For the more adventurous, the Marine Discover Center offers kayaking nature tours.

 It’s just as therapeutic to sit and listen to the River, watch the fishermen, and look for dolphins. You can do this from Riverside Park at the end of Canal Street, or a little park off the North Causeway.

The Mainland – Canal Street

Canal Street is the original “Main Street America” like you find in so many towns. It’s undergone a restoration in recent decades and is home to a pretty good variety of restaurants and shopping. For a special treat visit The Local Pearl Oyster Shoppe. I don’t even like oysters, and I loved this place. The lobster and corn hushpuppies are to die for. Run by a two-time James Beard semi-finalist, its quaint setting offers great food and service.

 You can pop into Little’s Drugs for a slice of nostalgia. Their vintage soda fountain is the original from the 1950s and still offers the best malts in town, which pair nicely with those drug store burgers from yesteryear.

 Off Canal and up US1 (known as Dixie Hwy) do not miss the Taco Shack. You stand in line to order at a small window, but the food is good, authentic, and cheap. You can eat on the covered patio while sipping Sangria, or just get takeout.  

A Tiny Spa Reprieve

Abundant Health Day Spa is an unassuming little spa in the Winn Dixie shopping center on Highway 44. I visit it whenever I’m in town, because nothing says relaxation like starting your trip with a massage. Book Sadako, you will not be disappointed. Their facials are also great, and they’ve added fllotation therapy, which I’ve yet to try.

Old Florida

The Sugar Mill Ruins is a largely forgotten landmark that was once a main attraction. Sugar production was a major industry in the 19th Century, and it’s meditative to walk the grounds of this historic site. The Spanish moss hanging from trees canopies the crumbling coquina walls and rusting kettles that once boiled cane juice.

The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is another 19th Century landmark to visit, though you have to drive north to Port Orange to access it.

 For a cute reminder of simpler times, check out the self-serve honey shack at 2429 Pioneer Trail. This family of bee-keepers offers mango and other honeys on the honor system. Just walk in the tiny shed, select your honey, and drop cash in the box. It makes a great gift to bring home to friends.

New Smyrna provides a great slice of Florida, without battling the Orlando and Daytona Beach crowds. It has everything necessary for the beach bunny, foodie, and nature buff in all of us, where you can custom design a trip to suit whatever is calling to you in the moment.

Seattle: On and Off the Beaten Trail

Whenever I visit Seattle and first glimpse the water, my body automatically heaves a breath deep into my inner core. It’s like my soul has been aching for moisture, but didn’t know. Much has been written about this unique city surrounded by water, but every experience is personal. It would take a lifetime to really unpack Seattle, so I’ll just share a few of my favorite things.  

If you’ve checked out travel blogs, you’ll find similarities in everyone’s Seattle “must see” list. “We Are Travel Girls” and Chelsea Dinen’s post include good examples of things to see and do. Yes, places like Pike Place Market and the Space Needle are tourist destinations, but for good reason.

Getting Around

Don’t kid yourself, driving in Seattle is hard. It’s trafficky, hilly, and parking is sparse. I-5 is a parking lot most of the day. That said, it is the best way to cover more ground quickly. If you don’t want to rent a car at the airport, you can take the light rail into town and then Uber/Lyft to your various destinations.

Lodging

Despite being such a great destination, Seattle is sorely lacking in hotels, especially affordable ones. You can find AirBnB’s in most neighborhoods. One hotel I like is the Watertown in the University District. It’s part of the boutique chain called StayPineapple, and they run specials from time to time. The rooms are all studios with comfy beds, crisp white linens, a fridge/microwave, robes, and view of the city lights. Tiny pineapple cupcakes welcome you in the lobby, and the stuffed husky Dash might be waiting on your bed. I like to walk to Trader Joe’s for snacks and wine, and there are tons of yummy Asian restaurants in the U District.

Pike Place Market

This is more than just the best spot for selfies, it’s a true Seattle experience. Before shopping, I love to go to The Crumpet Shop for a homemade crumpet and tea. The crumpet toppings are limitless, and the tea is amazing. The British are right, tea fixes everything – so don’t order coffee. And, if Southern is more your thing, try Biscuit Bitch, just two blocks north of The Crumpet Shop on 1st Ave.

Once you’re fueled it’s just a short walk downhill to Pike Place Market. It doesn’t matter where you start, the market is full of local artisans, jewelry, textiles, flowers and food food food. Don’t miss Pappardelle’s Pasta in the main hall where you can buy fresh pasta along with a yummy selection of sauces, oils and vinegars. It’s hard to miss the fishmonger throwing fish. This is also where I discovered Moon Valley Organics, a local farm/beekeeper with amazing products. Buy the Rejuvenating Body Rub and rub it on your achy parts after the long day. You’re welcome.

On my first trip, I discovered the Sound View Café. When you’re shopped out, it’s nice to grab a sandwich or bowl of clam chowder at this out of the way, order at the counter joint with a peek-a-boo view across the water. On your way back out to the street, be sure to take note of the Starbucks across the street – it’s the original.

Capitol Hill

This LGBTQ (turning hipster) part of town deserves a visit. There’s a plethora of trendy restaurants and bars, but I like the funky hole in the wall sandwich joint called The Honey Hole. It’s been a local favorite since 1999, everything, including the roasted meats, is made from scratch. The sandwiches are to die for and you’ll probably take half home. If there’s room for dessert, walk east on East Pike for about 4 blocks to Cupcake Royale. Then a nice stroll will walk it all off (or so we tell ourselves) as you explore more of the area, and maybe find a trendy bar for a night cap.

Japanese Garden

Yes, you should go up the Space Needle and bum around Seattle Center which boasts Chihuly Garden & Glass, the Museum of Pop Culture, and other attractions. But did you know Seattle also has a Japanese Garden? It’s at the southern end of Washington Park Arboretum and is an absolutely gorgeous spot to get your Zen on. Check their website for times and reservations though, since they change seasonally. It’s a magical place.

Other Good Things to Eat

Dick’s Drive-In ­– A local favorite since 1954, if you’re a fan of old-fashioned fast burgers, fries, and shakes – this is your place.

Razzi’s Pizzaria – This place smells too good to be true. Known for traditional as well as vegan pizzas, plus all kinds of Italian food.

The Walrus and The Carpenter – Oysters and booze.

Pacific Inn Pub – Fish and Chips, Anthony Bourdain ate here.

Spots to Avoid After Dark

Seattle is a big city, so expect some homelessness and panhandling. While mainly safe in the daytime, I wouldn’t walk alone in Bell Town or Pioneer Square at night.

A Girlfriend Getaway to Santa Cruz

view of the ocean from santa cruz arcade.. Photo by jeff nissen from unsplash

The air in Northern California feels like a soft kiss on the cheek. Not hot and drippy like the East, or steamy like the South. Just enough humidity to hydrate, and COMPLETELY unlike the dry, dry air in my home state of Colorado, where we bathe in lotion daily.

This sweet kiss of lovely weather kicked off my recent excursion to the East Bay area to visit my longtime friend of (ahem) years. We like to do overnight trips to places like the Wine Country, or the Monterey/Carmel area. This time we decided to venture to Santa Cruz for a change. Famed as the location of the 1987 vampire movie “The Lost Boys,” its got that funky beach town vibe, diverse population, and great tacos.

The Spa

This trip we were more interested in dusting off the stress of 2019, and some self care. So we found good deal at the Chaminade Resort and Spa, just inland from Santa Cruz, and nestled on a hill overlooking the Monterey Bay.

When we arrived, we immediately checked into the Spa for our “Antioxidant Wrap and Massage.” We wrapped in cozy robes, and drank tea in the Zen-like lounge while waiting for our massages.

My treatment began with a pumpkin body scrub, after which I was wrapped up like a burrito in warm towels and blankets. Topped off with a heavenly massage, I could barely ooze my jello-like state back to the room.

We were so relaxed, we lost interest in checking out the trendy dining scene in Santa Cruz. We opted for the hotel restaurant, which much to our delight, was on a beautiful patio overlooking the hills and on to the Bay. And just when I didn’t think the day could get any better, we discovered it was happy hour!

We dined on appetizers, wine, appetizers and more wine for hours. Then we topped it off with an entree, because, why not? All the food was delicious and the night was still young. We watched tiny sailboats racing in the harbor, as our server regaled us with stories of crewing the sailboat races in her youth. As the sun sank into the ocean, the patio came alive with table top fire pits and twinkly lights. So of course, we had to stay for dessert.

The Wharf

No trip to Santa Cruz is complete without visiting the boardwalk and wharf. We entered through the autumn graveyard of the famous Santa Cruz arcade. In October, kids had returned to school and parents to work. The games and rides now rested quietly, but still vibrated with echoes of summers past. It’s hard to imagine that this ocean front amusement park has been in operation since 1907.

A walk along the beach to the pier brought back my teenage memories of long days at the beach, driving home tired, sandy, and wet in my sister’s convertible MG. I’d forgotten how much I love California beaches where, unlike the East coast, the Ocean is not on the wrong side.

Seals serenaded our walk down the pier, barking from their shady hiding places under the pylons. The clear day highlighted the historic neighborhood to the North with its impeccably restored Victorian homes, ready to be the next location for a cozy mystery novel or a period movie.

We chose lunch at Stagnaro Bros., a family run fish market/restaurant that’s called the pier home since 1937. Founded by Italian immigrants, this place has amazing clam chowder and fish and chips, with coffee served old school in those thick diner style mugs. There are many restaurants to choose from, and lots of shops to satisfy your touristy itch for t-shirts and local crafts.

The Wine

Heading North on US 1, the Cabrillo Highway, I was surprised to see the coast lined with crops. Such precious real estate is usually reserved for wealthy homeowners. An easy to miss left turn on Bonny Doon Road took us up into the Santa Cruz Mountains where we discovered – wineries!

The Bonny Doon region, named after a poem by the Scottish poet, Robert Burns, began as a logging camp in the 1850s. The clearing of so many trees left open land, so someone had the brilliant idea to plant grapes! We visited Beauregard Vineyards tasting room, in a tiny old house on the side of the road.

Steeped in history, the building originally housed a general store for loggers, and later became the infamous 1950s pub called Lost Weekend. A beautiful garden and patio out back, sun shining through giant Redwoods, creates a beautiful setting for tastings. The wines weren’t bad either.

And so, with wine in trunk (and four boxes of Pumpkin Joe Joe’s from Trader Joe’s), we drove off into the sunset. A perfect ending to a perfect trip. Or maybe the perfect ending was drinking all the wine and eating all the cookies when we got home. They paired nicely with the Chardonnay.